Bella e Monella Climbing Route to the Torre Piccola in Falzarego

First climbers: Mario Dibona Moro, Nicola Lovison and Andrea Bacchin - September 2019

The Torri del Falzarego, so heavily crowded during the summer months, are located near Passo Falzarego; they have a nice southern exposure on beautiful, solid rock, and offer nice and safe climbing routes, each one of them bolted with cemented pitons. These towers bear the signature of all mythical climbers such as Emilio Comici, Angelo Dibona, Luigi Ghedina and many other climbing pioneers.

“I personally spent years climbing along these routes, therefore lately I was looking for the possibility to open a new route carrying a slightly higher level of difficulty than the ones opened in the Fifties and Sixties. At the beginning I started climbing the face solo, using self-safety techniques; later Nicola came to assist me, then with Andrea’s help we completed the route. This route on the Torre Piccola di Falzarego is very varied, with corners, slabs and traverses almost always on great rock. The spit bolting fits into my style.”
(Mario Dibona Moro)

Information on the Bella e Monella Climbing Route at the Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Length 1
An army piton at the base marks the start of the route. Climb straight up on the grey slab to a small crack on yellow rock (cemented pitons), then veer slightly to the right on easy rocks up to the belay.
40 meters, 5a – 5b level of difficulty

Length 2
From the belay, tackle a yellow corner, climbing with care; then cross to the right, continuing on black vertical rock including a very challenging move. Reaching the end of the length, make sure to follow the splits to the belay: do not climb along the couloir, the rock is extremely friable!
50 meters, 5b-6a level of difficulty

Length 3
Nice overhanging face in the first section, then easy rocks up to the belay with the cemented piton of the Via delle Guide, where we suggest you stop to avoid too much friction on the rope.
18 meters, 6a level of difficulty

Length 4
Along vertical grey slab at first, followed by slightly holding slab up to the belay.
20 meters, 5a level of difficulty

Length 5
Straight up on nice grey slightly holding slab
30 meters 4b level of difficulty

Length 6
Spectacular crossing on yellow rock that follows a horizontal crack later climbing on a slightly overhanging vertical.
35 meters, 5b – 6a+ level of difficulty

Length 7
Climb straight up from the belay, then face a long, exposed traverse up to the spur on the tower.
Belay on a cemented piton.
35 meters, 5b level of difficulty

Length 8
The summit of the Torre Piccola di Falzarego is reached on easy rocks.
25 meters, level of difficulty 2

Gear:
60 meters rope
13 quickdraws
Slings and cords

Equipment

tel. +39 3279311671 - booking@dolomitiskirock.com

Bella e Monella Climbing Route to the Torre Piccola in Falzarego

Information on the Bella e Monella Climbing Route at the Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Equipment

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